The skin disease had plagued Candy Knox since childhood. Each winter, the red, scaly patches indicative of psoriasis would reappear on her arms and Knox would once again contend with discomfort and feelings of insecurity. But a few years ago her dermatologist recommended a surprising treatment that has helped Knox cope when cold weather hits: indoor tanning.
"My doctor said my best bet was to move to Florida or go tanning when I needed it," said Knox, who now makes periodic trips to the tanning booth. "It really seems to help whenever I have a breakout."
Deemed fashionable during the 1920s by an influential French designer, the bronzed look has been trendy for decades. Now, with an estimated 30 million people visiting salons each year, the tanning industry is reaping the financial benefit of the beauty conscious, according to the California Tan and the Heliotherapy Light and Skin Research Center at Boston University School of Medicine. But for some, tanning isn't just about looking good. Candy Knox is one of a growing number of Americans who participate in heliotherapy, a gradual exposure of UV rays intended to decrease skin disease and other disorders.
"Most people think tanning is pretty bad for you, and they're right in a way," Knox said, commenting on the negative stigma attached to America's tanning fixation. "But for people like me who really need it, it can do a lot of good."
The therapeutic exposure to sunlight has origins in ancient Chinese and Egyptian medicine. Since tanning's dramatic rise in popularity in America, tanning networks and businesses have been hailing the medical advantages of sun exposure, according to the California Tan and the Heliotherapy Light and Skin Research Center at Boston University School of Medicine. Some argue that heliotherapy can serve as a skin cancer preventative as gradual UV exposure lessens the likelihood of severe sunburns. Other advocates of the treatment claim that in addition to healing acne and psoriasis, heliotherapy can decrease blood pressure and stress, lower cholesterol and alleviate some forms of depression.
Dyane Riel was born and raised in a tiny Canadian village north of Quebec, a frigid community where it snows in October and stays dark for nearly half the year. Riel said many locals experience Seasonal Affective Disorder, a form of depression that stems from lack of sunlight. That's where tanning comes in.
"A lot of people I knew were depressed all the time," said Riel in a thick French-Canadian accent. "They opened tanning shops in town and everyone uses them. A lot of people go south for vacations as well. These things are great therapy for them."
Crystal Chiasson, manager of Hair Excitement in Durham, agrees that tanning has many potential health benefits. On a tour of the salon's deluxe tanning area - eight private rooms with island names like Acapulco and Jamaica - Chiasson explained the uplifting sensation afforded by UV rays.
"Tanning does for people what the sun does for flowers," she said. "It opens them right up. When it's cloudy and dreary outside, tanning can definitely brighten your day."
Chiasson added that gradual exposure is the key to tanning perfection. To deter excessive tanning, Hair Excitement ensures that their equipment is up to date and that their customers never exceed maximum time in the booths or beds. The salon mandates the use of protective eyewear and lotion for all tanners.
"It's very important to us that we promote healthy tanning," Chiasson said. "If you follow the rules it can be very good for you, especially for those who use it as a treatment."
But the science of heliotherapy isn't without controversy. The Skin Cancer Foundation has criticized the indoor tanning industry for taking "an aggressive stand, claiming that not only is indoor tanning harmless, but that it is actually healthy." On the contrary, the foundation claims that the UV rays emitted by tanning booths and beds are highly carcinogenic and can lead to the development of skin cancer in humans.
UNH junior Christie Klisz is not a proponent of regular tanning. She agrees with the Skin Cancer Foundation's assertions that increased exposure to ultraviolet light can be harmful. But Klisz is defensive about her visits to the tanning booth last March before a spring break trip to Hawaii.
"When you go to a place close to the equator you have to be careful," she said. "By tanning a little bit beforehand I made sure I wouldn't burn when I got there. I think that's the worst thing for your skin - getting a bad sunburn."
Klisz's sentiments are echoed in the manifesto of the International Smart Tan Network (ISTN), a salon association that uses the notions of heliotherapy to promote safe and responsible tanning. According to the network's Web site, ISTN is devoted to educating millions of tanners worldwide about the benefits of tanning and the dangers of severe sunburn. ISTN also sponsors research programs that further explore the "physiological and psychological advantages" of UV exposure.
Perfect Tan salon in Durham recently joined the ranks of the International Smart Tan Network. Salon employees ask that each new customer complete an ISTN survey that gauges individual skin sensitivity. Tanners are questioned about the natural color of their untanned skin, as well as natural hair and eye color, freckle count and genetic heritage. Each participant is then given a skin score that explains their sunburn potential.
"People come in who have really pale skin, and we make sure we start them at low levels of exposure so they don't burn," said Vanessa LeBreque, a second year UNH student and part-time employee at Perfect Tan. "We do our best to educate people about the right way to tan."
The growing membership of associations like the International Smart Tan Network reflect a worldwide interest in the potential health benefits of tanning. And despite a possible link to cancer, countless tanners like Knox are lauding the curative properties of gradual UV exposure. For Knox, tanning provides an escape from uncomfortable psoriasis. She no longer dreads the itchy patches that once bloomed in winter months. She no longer worries about the appearance of unsightly irritations on her arms. Fueled by compelling stories from tanners like Knox, the ancient science of heliotherapy is poised for a comeback.
Information for this story was obtained from scientific studies conducted by California Tan and the Heliotherapy Light and Skin Research Center at Boston University School of Medicine.
Information found on the Skin Cancer Foundation website and the International Smart Tan Network website also contributed to this story.
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